The Bakerboys of Birmingham
Under the Peak
Following the success of Peaky Blinders in 2013, Cillian Murphy and the Shelby gang became closely associated with their iconic caps. Worn throughout the series by the gang on which the story is based. The cap quickly established itself as the defining element for the show’s visual identity. Herbert Johnson at Swaine collaborated closely with the costume designer to craft these iconic hats. Hamid Riza, who has been with Swaine for over 15 years, was the lead craftsman on the project. The traditional bakerboy cap was elongated and slimmed down with the peak contoured to the actors face, emphasising the eye line to create a more menacing impression.
Costume designer, Alison McCosh, once again sought out the skilled craftsmen within Herbert Johnson to collaborate on The Immortal Man; the Peaky Blinders film currently filling cinemas. The broader cast appear in the familiar newspaper boy style cap, while the principal characters are set apart in bespoke bakerboy caps, handcrafted in Swaine’s New Bond Street workshop in London.
The notorious real life gang that operated in Birmingham in the 19th century were known for wearing peaked caps and were rumoured to have stitched blades into the linings. While the series dramatises this detail, razor blades were in reality a luxury item, so the truth may never be known. Yet the idea of a hat serving as both a weapon and a mark of identity, almost like a badge of honour or a tattoo, is fascinating. The cap crowns the head, signalling style and personality, but simultaneously carries a warning to anyone bold enough to cross the gang.
Today, the Herbert Johnson collection features caps inspired by those created for the show, albeit stripped of any razor blades. The style remains indifferent to passing fashions, surviving wardrobe clear outs and decades alike. I remember my grandfather, rarely seen without one perched on his head. Now I notice the same silhouette appearing just as naturally on people of all ages and genders. It is a continuity rather than revival! A style that has never needed rescuing from obscurity. The Bakerboy's appeal lies not only with their versatility, but also, simply in the fact they are a joy to wear.
Herbert Johnson’s handcrafted artistry showcases why these hats have enjoyed popularity across generations and social circles. Expertly designed to mould to the shape of your head, each hat ages with you, boasting a quality that ensures it can be kept and even passed down for years to come.
